Mesh False Bottom - by aubiecat
I have been wanting to get away from using the steamer basket on my BIAB rig because I don't get efficient circulation during mashing. I happened to acquire some heavy 1/2" stainless mesh from work and I was all gung ho about making a mesh basket to solve my problems.
After contemplating all the work it was going to take to make a basket, I thought why not try to fashion a false bottom instead. My wort chiller can sit on top of the false bottom pretty easy as well.
Knowing the mesh alone wouldn't be strong enough by itself, I had a 1/2" wide flange cut from 1/16" thick stainless steel. The flange covers the ends of the mesh so the bag won't get snagged. The two flat areas on the flange are due to the steamer basket lip on the Bayou Classic pot.
After contemplating all the work it was going to take to make a basket, I thought why not try to fashion a false bottom instead. My wort chiller can sit on top of the false bottom pretty easy as well.
Knowing the mesh alone wouldn't be strong enough by itself, I had a 1/2" wide flange cut from 1/16" thick stainless steel. The flange covers the ends of the mesh so the bag won't get snagged. The two flat areas on the flange are due to the steamer basket lip on the Bayou Classic pot.
I took a section of the mesh and laid it over the flange to mark my cutting points and began cutting the shape I wanted with my snips. A Marks a Lot works well here.
Mesh cut to shape.
A little bit of clean up trim to make sure there aren't any over hanging wires to snag the bag.
Used an old snare drum rim to give me a working fab frame and hold the hot metal off my wooden work bench. Vise grips to clamp the mesh to the flange. I used a die grinder with a scotch brite pad to smooth and prep the surface of the flange for soldering.
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I used Stay Brite flux and Oatey lead-free solder to attach the mesh to the flange.
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After rinsing the flux off with water, here is the finished soldering job.
What it looks like from the top after hitting it with the scotch brite again.
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I used 5/16" x 3" stainless carriage bolts as my standoffs. I used two 3/8" stainless washers to keep the 5/16" nut off the square on the carriage bolt head. Four standoffs out near the flange to transfer strength. Two in the center opposite the heating element will keep the center from sagging if there is any.
Bottom side.
The flats on the flange slip right past the steamer basket lip. Fits and sits perfectly in the kettle. By tipping the false bottom to one side I can easily grab and remove it.
